If you haven’t tried German riesling for years because you think of that warm German wine on your corner shop’s bottom shelf, then think again.
And now would be as good a time as any. The 31 Days of German Riesling campaign organised by Wines of Germany is in full flow.
Author and wine critic Stuart Piggott says: “A miracle has happened in Germany. A generation ago there were good German wines but you had to search hard to find some. Today they are available in abundance in every price range.”
I was welcomed into the home of Dr Franz Werner, whose family has owned Domdechant for seven generations. If enthusiasm could be bottled, I doubt it could match his fine rieslings. A Classic Rheingau is so-named because it is typical of its region, in this case a light golden, mouth-filling acidity full of rounded citrus and stone fruits.
I tasted Dr Werner’s excellent Hochheimer Hölle Riesling Kabinett in his dining room, surrounded by family portraits as the early summer sun glinted crisply on the elegant wine. Balanced peaches and pear mingled wonderfully in the mouth, with a tingling lingering acidity.
Also in my glass