Wine Press: Roast beef, wine and National Yorkshire Pudding Day

National Yorkshire Pudding Day wine

Who would have thought there is a day devoted to the humble yet wondrous Yorkshire Pudding. I love a Yorkshire pud, even better, I love its traditional accompaniment of beef.

So when someone told me that tomorrow, Sunday, is The Day to celebrate Yorkshire puddings (always the first Sunday in February apparently) it seemed a good enough reason to look at red wines to enjoy with beef. A tenuous link perhaps, but my brain works like that.

I cooked a beef joint in half a bottle of red with lots and lots of onion, carrots and celery. It was unctuous, slow-cooked, melting beef. I nestled the sauce in a crunchy Yorkshire (well, two actually) with the humdinger heat of a horseradish huddle spooned alongside. Now that was a challenge for any red.

I taste tested as follows. (I did two sittings to be honest. I ate beef and Yorkshire pud on two consecutive nights. That’s what I do for you.)

Extra Special Malbec 2014 (ASDA, £7) is a ruby red from Mendoza, Argentina, with 13% abv. Plums rise out of the glass, with a breeze of heather and some herbs. There’s no running away when it comes to the horseradish test; and the savoury beef and soft veg merged with the wine into a fruity, onion sweet, spice kick.

Extra Special Malbec 2014, Asda and Limestone Coast Cabernet Sauvignon, Aldi
Extra Special Malbec 2014, Asda and Limestone Coast Cabernet Sauvignon, Aldi

The Exquisite Collection Limestone Coast Cabernet Sauvignon (Aldi, £6.49, 14% abv) A deep red, so deep you can’t see your fingers through the glass. The Limestone Coast chardonnay is a winner with some of my friends, but what of the cab sav? There’s a menthol hum above the rim, with lots of squeezed blackcurrants, herbs and pepper. To taste, the dark fruits blend and melt with the beef and burst delightfully with the horseradish.

McGuigan Classic Cabernet Sauvignon
McGuigan Classic Cabernet Sauvignon

To one more cab sav, another from Australia, and McGuigan Classic Cabernet Sauvignon (RRP £8.49 Tesco, Sainsbury’s, 12.5% abv). A lighter red than the Aldi cab sav, as clasping fingers can be seen through a red haze of wine and glass. The aromas of black fruits helter skelter through upfront spicy pepper, as feminine florals float alongside. Blackcurrant bastes the beef with soft fruity notes and acidity excites with the horseradish.

Réserve des Tuguets 2010 AOC Madiran
Réserve des Tuguets 2010 AOC Madiran

Réserve des Tuguets 2010 AOC Madiran, Plaimant Producers (£11.99, Tesco) There’s three grapes here. Tannat, cabernet sauvignon and cabernet franc are blended in the foothills of the Pyrenees to produce this wine which won a bronze at the 2013 Decanter World Wine Awards. I expected oomph, a flash of French Musketeer bravado. If the previous three wines were defiant T-shirt ripped teenagers, this wine is in its twenties, quieter and wearing a three piece suit. With the beef, yes, blackberry and blackcurrant flavours are perfect; with the horseradish, it was overpowered.

Crikey. It’s a challenge to keep eating and drinking, but someone has to.

Also in my glass … Craggy Range Sauvignon Blanc (sold widely, various prices, including The Wine Society £11.95, and Majestic £15.99 – £11.99 on a buy any two offer). Craggy Range won the New World Winery category at the prestigious Wine Enthusiast magazine’s Wine Star Awards a few weeks ago.

Craggy Range Te Muna Road Sauvignon Blanc
Craggy Range Te Muna Road Sauvignon Blanc

It’s a sauvignon blanc with a difference. Grapes have been fermented in French oak, aswell as stainless steel, and then the wine was matured for five months before bottling. There is the fresh lime citrus spike on the nose familiar to sauvignon blanc, but with a floral lift and lots of tempting tropical fruits. To taste, a meringue of limes and more tropical fruits with a creamy, and flinty, finish. Delicious.

Published in the saturday extra magazine January 31, 2015

Liverpool Echo – South Wales Echo – Daily Post Wales – Huddersfield Examiner – The Chronicle, Newcastle – Teesside Evening Gazette – Birmingham  Mail – Coventry Telegraph – Paisley Daily Express

The Wine Society wizards and the girl who hates raisins

“I don’t like raisins,” said The Girl Who Doesn’t Like Raisins.

“You might not like raisins,” I said, “but you’ll like this.” I asked Girl Who Doesn’t Like Raisins to pour a fingertip of Blind Spot Rutherglen Muscat wine into a glass and  taste.

“I’m not sure” she said, “Don’t be scared,” I said, as she raised the glass.  “Wow, I love that,” she said.

The Girl Who Doesn’t Like Raisins had been determined she wouldn’t enjoy the deeply fruity wine from Rutherglen, north east Victoria in Australia.

But she loved it, and I’ll go to my  bar stool in the sky happier that The Girl Who Doesn’t Like Raisins has tried and enjoyed a wine that she had discarded down a mental cul-de-sac.

Blind Spot Rutherglen Muscat Wine Society
Blind Spot Rutherglen Muscat

Blind Spot Rutherglen Muscat (£6.95 for a half bottle) was just one of the joys at a Wine Society‘s Wizards of Oz  tasting. I spotted it soon after I arrived and decided to save to last.

The Society’s Blind Spot range has been developed exclusively by its Australia buyer Pierre Mansour who realised there were lots of wonderful selections of grapes being added to blended wines, but which in fact would make fantastic wines on their own.

Rutherglen muscat is a speciality of the region, where grapes are semi-raisined on the vine, partially fermented and then fortified with grape spirit and aged in oak under a hot tin roof. A bit like cooking, very very slowly.

The result is an unctuous 17.5% abv of heaven, with caramel, sultanas, raisins, Christmas cake – perhaps date and walnut cake – and orange blossom. And a very happy me, and a very surprised Girl Who Doesn’t Like Raisins.

White delights at the tasting, which celebrated Australia’s wines, included:

 

D'Arenberg White Ochre McLaren Vale 2013
D’Arenberg White Ochre McLaren Vale 2013

 

  • D’Arenberg White Ochre McLaren Vale 2013 (£7.95) a blend of sauvignon blanc, riesling, marsanne and roussanne. It charms with pineapple and citrus,  with a  richness which made me think “oak”, but no.  Riesling adds  elegance, sauvignon the aromatics,  marsanne and roussanne  a nutty character.  Delicious.

 

Heggies Eden Valley Chardonnay 2011
Heggies Eden Valley Chardonnay 2011
  •  Heggies Eden Valley Chardonnay 2011 (£12.95)  is a bit of a shock at first glass shiver and shake. This wine takes your nose on a whirlwind tour. There’s more whirlwind than a fairground waltzer. I picked up tar; burnt popcorn; socks; rich caramelised apples; creme brulee. Five minutes of nose-dipping and chatting about the wine, I realised I hadn”t tasted it because I was so engrossed with its complexity. When I did, it was deep, creamy, honeyed and savoury, with the burnt bits from apple crumble. Deep, deep, deep.

    Tahblik Ngambie Lakes Viognier 2013
    Tahblik Ngambie Lakes Viognier 2013
  • Tahblik Ngambie Lakes Viognier 2013 (£9.95) Loving viognier as I do, I wasn’t going to walk past without proffering my tasting glass.
    (It was round about this stage when I asked where my glass had gone, and was told “it’s in your hand …” )
    A lovely young man (all men are young to me) told me that Tahblik is Aborginal for The Place of Many Watering Holes. Tahblik is a winery  north of Melbourne and excels in white Rhone grapes such as marsanne, roussanne, cabernet sauvignon, shiraz and of course viognier. This was a  crisp example of viognier with fruit cocktail squished through and through. Oranges take centre stage, nudging other fruits out of the way; but pineapple, mango, and pears are still there in the background, humming in the chorus.

To some reds.

Now there was very young man (as opposed to the young man earlier) who was helping out on a shiraz table which included Billi Billi Grampians Shiraz 2010 (£8.95). I asked him if he liked wine … bear in mind I’d been drinking at this point … and he said he had never touched a drop. But qualified his sentence with “the smell of this stuff is sending me tipsy. I’ll get a sample at the end and see what all the fuss is about”.

Back to Very Young Man later.

The Billi Billi was rich, deep red fruity and vibrant, with a masculine  firm-footed grating of white pepper flirting with an ever-so-gentle violet. Violet wasn’t overwhelmed, so good luck to  Mr Pepper.

  • Now then, for McHenry Hohnen Rocky Road Margaret River Zinfandel 2012 (£16) I wrote  Hartley’s Blackurrant Jam in my tasting notes. And by Jove it was; a juicy fruity squidge of jam and as velvety and soft and comforting as cotton wool (I wrote that too).  There were herbs too, and snapped twig.

    Yalumba The Octavius Barossa Shiraz 200
    Yalumba The Octavius Barossa Shiraz 200
  • Yalumba The Octavius Barossa Shiraz 200 (£49) was the most expensive wine in the room, and not surprisingly people kept sneaking back for more. It is one of Australia’s icon wines;  it has chocolatey and rich, deep dark fruit aromas which promise so much but deliver too.
    Grapes are grown on 100-year-old vines. Like the words of an aged but beloved grandparent, grapes can be few and far between, but once arrive, they are full of depth, and share the experience of a life lived.
    It has an aroma which promises so much and really delivers.  There’s chunky chocolate, dark fruits, violets and a depth to wallow in.  For several minutes.

Back to Very Young Man and The Girl Who Doesn’t Like Raisins.  As I left I caught up with VYM just as he was tasting a teeny drop of Billi Billi Grampians Shiraz 2010.  He gave me a thumbs-up. The Girl Who Doesn’t Like Raisins waved.
There. Two more converts to the wonderful world of wine.

  • Find out more about the Wine Society here