Bacon and onion tart may not sound like a culinary dream – but with a glass of superb German pinot gris wine it can feel like luxury.
I fancied some German pinot gris and came across a recommendation to drink it with Zwiebelkuchen, which is a traditional German baked dish of dough covered with onion and bacon, and egg and creme fraiche.
So I did.
With it, a glass of Salwey Pinot Gris 2011 from Baden (£13.20 www.tanners-wines.co.uk) was perfection.
Now this pinot gris is miles apart from its flavour-thin mass produced pinot grigio cousin from Italy.
If you’re browsing German labels, you’ll see grauburgunder (a dry wine) or ruländer (a sweeter version).
I met Konrad Salwey, the producer of my pinot gris, some months ago and he enthused about his wine which was born out of the volcanic soils in Baden.
It has nectarines, pears and lemons on the nose and an excitable scythe-like acidity tremors and teases your tastebuds long after the last drop of wine has slipped down your throat.
There’s a rich, fulsome spiciness which perfectly complemented the creamy, peppery pie topping.
Konrad told me that his own preference was to have the wine with mushroom risotto or creamy pasta.
I hunted around for a couple of other German pinot gris.
Palataia Pinot Grigio 2012 (Marks & Spencer, £8.49) is from the Pfalz and blends pinot gris with 15% pinot blanc. It is a bright, crisp, mountain-fresh trickle of apples lemons and pears.
Klein Pinot Gris 2012 (www.nakedwines.com, £11.99 or £8.99 if you’re an investing Angel) lacks the creamy depth of the Salwey but has fresh citrus and stone fruits on the nose and a good, balanced zesty finish with tickly spice.
For more information on German wines you can go to www.winesofgermany.co.uk
Also in my glass… medal-winning Trivento Reserve Malbec 2012 (Tesco, £8.99) was a plummy, datey, mouthful with a nose like a walk through a warm, autumn forest. It came into its own with a hearty chorizo-laced pasta and suits powerful flavours superbly.
Published in the saturday extra magazine November 9, 2013